Many of L.A.'s Asian markets, especially the mega super-shopping ones, are excellent dining destinations unto themselves. Walk into any Mitsuwa market throughout the Southland and you’re certain to find a tidy, well-equipped food court with choice selections of noodles, sushi and donburi. But to get the full-blown experience, head south (yes, my friend, we’re talking the South Bay) to the huge Torrance branch. A wood-trimmed, multi-tiered dining area reproduces an elegant Japanese courtyard, around which are food booths and gift shops up the yin-yang. It's a food maniakku wonderland where Pocky and ramen co-exist with manga and Hello Kitty and high-tech bidets. With so many vendors in a single space, how does one choose? Let Metromix—and the fantastic displays of plastic food—guide your appetite.
Your day in food court: Mitsuwa Torrance
An elegant courtyard of Japanese delights
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix; Shane Redsar, Special to Metromix
May 7, 2008Many of L.A.'s Asian markets, especially the mega super-shopping ones, are excellent dining destinations unto themselves. Walk into any Mitsuwa market throughout the Southland and you’re certain to find a tidy, well-equipped food court with choice selections of noodles, sushi and donburi. But to get the full-blown experience, head south (yes, my friend, we’re talking the South Bay) to the huge Torrance branch. A wood-trimmed, multi-tiered dining area reproduces an elegant Japanese courtyard, around which are food booths and gift shops up the yin-yang. It's a food maniakku wonderland where Pocky and ramen co-exist with manga and Hello Kitty and high-tech bidets. With so many vendors in a single space, how does one choose? Let Metromix—and the fantastic displays of plastic food—guide your appetite.
Kobe Fugetsudo
21515 Western Ave., TorranceYou can’t miss the brilliant red banners of Kobe Fugetsudo: this booth is the first to greet you once you walk into Mitsuwa’s main entrance. Not to be confused with the famed Fugetsudo of Little Tokyo, this single L.A. outpost of the Japanese chain specializes in Euro-fabulous, wafery-delicate sweets. Gaufres of all flavors and L’espoir-brand cookies are packaged in gorgeous (and expensive) gift sets—a unique specialty gift for the foodie snob in your life.
Daikichi Sushi
21515 Western Ave., TorranceNo insult to Whole Foods; but for a fast food sushi experience that won’t feel like a bad oxymoron in the morning, we’ll put our well-being in the hands of Daikichi Sushi that has mastered the modern day art of express-to-go. Nigiri, inari, cut rolls and combinations are laid out in the open refrigerated displays for your consideration. A prominent sticker considerately provides you the freshness date. We would have grabbed a stack for dinner that night, but Daikichi is cash only—next time, we’ll bring a couple extra Jacksons.
Minamoto Kitchoan
21515 Western Ave., TorranceThe delectable aroma that wafts from the food court vendors may be calling, but it's easy to get stalled up at this stylish counter which sits at the entranceway to the main "courtyard." Japanese sweets are packaged and displayed so pristinely, it could very well be a couture gift shop—and the prices are equally elite to boot. Traditional “wagashi” filled with azuki paste or sweet sesame, elongated loaves of spongy kasutera cake, and artfully-sculpted pastries tempt your every culinary whim.
Yamamotoyama
21515 Western Ave., TorranceYou’ll find this purveyor of fine tea, appropriately enough, behind Minamoto’s couture sweets shop. Green tea, in varietals as diverse and unique as wine, is sold loose, bagged, and—you guessed it—in gift sets. For an immediate fix, any tea can be brewed hot and ready for a buck and some change. Or, select cold versions of iced or blended matcha. But for an experience unlike any other food court, partake in a ceremonial tea service in the mock zen garden with cushioned zabuton seating.
Curry Club
21515 Western Ave., TorranceThis counter is all about curry—in case, you missed the obvious name and vivid yellow awning and furnishings. Curry of the Japanese-ilk, which is more savory and earthy than the coconut milk used in Thailand or the aromatic spice of India, is offered in multiple ways and even as a blanket for katsu-meat or “hamburg” steak. And if all the curry options weren’t enough, anything can be mixed together to order. Take particular note, ice cream fiends: they also got a soft-serve machine (the only one in the food court) that dispenses chocolate, vanilla or half-half swirled in cones or pate choux puff.
Santouka Ramen
21515 Western Ave., TorranceNot feeling like curry? Just move to the next stall over for the place to get your ramen-fix. The style of ramen here is Asahikawa from the most northern Hokkaido isle. The colder climes of its source dictate a richer pork-based broth with a touch of briny seafood-flavor that is served super-scalding hot; so, use caution as you slurp the firm, characteristically curly noodles. Familiar flavorings of shoyu (soy sauce), miso (bean paste) and shio (salt) are offered with additional add-ins like chasu (pork), kikurage (wood-ear mushroom), umeboshi (pickled plum) or brined, hard-boiled egg. In case you’re wondering: despite the slight difference in the spelling, this cash-only, dine-in (no takeout) counter is part of the same Santouka chain from Japan.
Katsuhana
21515 Western Ave., TorranceFried food addicts have got a nose for what Katsuhana is cooking at the south end of the food court. Not to be confused with tempura—which is just as deliciously fried but with a light rice flour batter—katsu is the coating of panko bread crumbs that encases chicken, pork, shrimp and whatever else the culinary mind can imagine. Croquettes reveal anything from the mundane but tasty potato to crab cream cheese and layers of ham rolled around asparagus or plum paste. Like its ramen neighbor Santooka, this fry guy is cash and dine-in only.
Miyabi-Tei
21515 Western Ave., TorranceIt’s admittedly difficult at first to see the difference between Miyabi-Tei and its immediate neighbor Mifune. If you’re in the mood for noodle soups and such comfort fare, either offers reliable selections to content the heart. But Miyabi-Tei’s specialty is obviously rice. Donburi (protein-topped rice bowls) of all sorts crowd the display case from basic gyu-don (sliced beef and onions) to una don (barbecue eel) and, our personal favorite, the unabashed obsession of the Japanese with hamburger steak. Bento boxes of differing size and elaborateness are also available. But, be sure you got enough green. This stall is also cash only.
Mifune
21515 Western Ave., TorranceWhile Mifune has a few requisite offerings of donburi and the like (the rest are left to adjacent Miyabi-Tei), lengths and lengths of noodle are the staple to this long-standing shop. A 90-year-old noodle recipe is the foundation to a full menu of soba cold, soba hot, udon soupy, udon pan-fried. Tempura and bento combos are safe bets too, but for our food court outing, we relished in a bowl of Yamakake Soba, topped with a sunny-side egg that enriches the broth. Mifune is also one of the few stalls that accepts credit card.
Italian Tomato
21515 Western Ave., TorranceSpaghetti + Japanese? Don’t knock it ‘til you tried it. In fact, Japanese-Italian is a bona fide cuisine category unto itself, especially in the South Bay. While red and white sauces should be familiar to the uninitiated, try a sampling of spaghetti with bacon asparagus or cabbage and wieners. The sandwiches also indulge spectacularly in mayonnaise and “bolonya.” As if this wasn’t fusion-frenzied enough, Italian Tomato has a full dessert case of crèmes and crepes and cakes sold whole or by the slice.
Hamada-ya
21515 Western Ave., TorranceDone with your food court tour? Venture forth into Mitsuwa proper for more culinary discoveries. Hamada-Ya is a classic Japanese bakery, which means you’ll find buttery buns that come plain or filled with starchy paste (like yam or white bean), cheese and/or meat. We can’t get enough of the donuts which are rolled in panko and come either sweet (with azuki filling) or savory with something like potato and ground beef. And wonders never cease to amaze: our recent outing unearthed the confection of potato croquettes stuffed in flaky, pretzel-shaped bread with a katsu-like dipping sauce. Glorious.
Mikawaya
21515 S. Western Ave., TorranceOne word: mochi. Okay, more words: anything that could possibly work with lush, sweet rice flour is created into whimsical, two-bite treats that can be purchased by the piece. Purple knots are taro filled with lima-bean paste (seriously, it’s a good idea), muted yellow comes from peanut butter, and even “ordinary” red bean can be purchased as pretty pink and green apple shapes. Of course, there’s the mochi ice cream. The market carries the packaged boxes, but why not mix-and-match flavors for the exact same price?
Mitsuwa Torrance
21515 Western Ave., TorranceOn a weekend afternoon, the lanes were buzzing with attendants hyping food samples amidst the rice and sake and udon—think, Costco but with curry rice rather than bagel bites. The prepared food bin is also a sight to behold with rows upon endless rows of bento boxes and noodle-icious combos. The hands-down winner in weird-but-awesome category: taco rice. Seasoned ground beef, shredded lettuce, tomatoes atop savory Mexican-style rice. And the day wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the candy aisle for some of the cutest snacks to say “Hello Kitty.”

