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Practically equidistant between the celebrated austerity of Sushi Nozawa and the flash stardom of Katsu-ya, this mini-mall mite suffers a bit of middle-child syndrome. But Kazu enthusiasts don’t mind keeping this underdog—and the promise, “We don’t serve California rolls”—to themselves for a while. That way, a table and the attention of chef Kazu are assured, especially if you entrust your dinner to omakase. Although it’s up to the master’s whimsy, try to coax a sampling of the sunset-orange sawagani, or fried candy crabs, which are not to be missed.

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Studio City restaurants, Sushi restaurants, Japanese restaurants