Oh, ye of little fashion sense; how we hate to say, “I told you so.” OK, maybe we don’t. Maybe we love it more than a purebred pony on Christmas morning. Still, we hate to see you suffer the consequences of not heeding our fashion foresight. Remember three months ago, when we told you that capes, cloaks and ponchos were going to be the “it” accessory for spring and you merely scoffed at us? You don’t? Let us refresh your memory.
Before we dive into the wonderful world of armless outer layering, let’s make sure you know what the hell we’re talking about. A cloak is a loose-fitting garment worn over one’s clothing; it fastens about the neck or shoulders, is usually sleeveless and often hooded. Some fasten at the front and have slits for the arms to pose akimbo through. A cape generally refers to a short cloak ending just at the waist, and a poncho is basically a blanket with a hole in it, favoring comfort over style.
Once upon a time in 19th-century England, women wore hooded cloaks to denote respectability. Had “Juno” been made during the Victorian era, Ellen Page would have likely donned a cloak, as they were often used to cover pregnancy in the modest society. Capes were less practical—sometimes only covering shoulders—but were often ornately decorated with lace, embroidery or fur, a la pieces recently seen in Dame Vivienne Westwood’s fall 2008 Paris Fashion Week collection (though hers were faux). In the 20th century, capes and cloaks quickly became glamorous accessories in the knowing hands of golden-age Hollywood. Vivien Leigh stormed about in voluminous cloaks in “Gone with the Wind,” while Edith Head dressed Barbara Stanwyck in beautiful beaded capes in “The Lady Eve.”
The poncho, on the other hand, has fallen in and out of fashion’s good graces over the years. It was at the height of its popularity during the era of ’60s counterculture. We're not suggesting that altered states accounted for popularity of ponchos among flower children, but it couldn't have hurt. Eschewing glamour for practicality, the poncho can at times be a woeful misstep in the long stride down the runway of life. Take for example the poncho/jumpsuit hybrid shown in Jeremy Scott’s recent Paris Fashion Week collection—it defies wearability.
No one has done more for capes and cloaks in recent years than our idol and yours, Vogue editor-at-large André Leon Talley. On every red carpet; at every collection’s front row; at every costume ball, charity gala, store opening or all-you-can-eat buffet; ALT never leaves home without draping a majestic cape, cloak or large coat over his impeccably tailored suits.
While the poncho has recently come upon hard times—it’s a walking punch line these days, thanks in large part to “Ugly Betty”—capes and cloaks are a safe bet to become this year’s Tory Burch flats. And finding them in L.A. isn’t as hard as you might think. Aardvark's on Melrose is a great place to start if you’re looking for vintage or funky renditions. For something more refined, try Reiss, Monarchy Collection or Madley, the latter of which has capes by Smoke and Mirrors as well as some knit pieces from its own in-house label. And finally, don’t forget about the surprisingly wearable ponchos found on Olvera Street or Santee Alley. They may not be of the highest quality, but they're a great way to dip your toe in the trend pool before investing in something that lasts longer than a single season.
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