Jonathan Kanarek is reviving the lost art of haberdashery. Deemed one of Esquire magazine’s “Best Dressed Real Men in America” last year, Kanarek took his lifelong passion and talent for fine dressing and created an unparalleled apparel experience for the modern gentleman. With an intimate, lounge-like retail setting, his Los Feliz store Jake Vintage—a name derived from the ’20s jazz term “everything’s jake,” meaning “everything’s cool”—offers everything from vintage Dior cuff links to cobalt-blue ascots to three-piece houndstooth suits. We caught up with the classic-clothing aficionado during one of the rare times he wasn’t on the hunt for new finds, and picked his derby-covered brain about his latest enterprise: a seminar series on what it means to be a gentleman.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Timeless. Classic. A fashion-forward modern gentleman.
Who are your timeless, classic and fashion-forward style icons?
Cary Grant, Fred Astaire and their ilk. They always looked so polished and well planned. There was always a keen attention to detail coupled with a strong sense of confidence in the way they projected themselves. Also, Bryan Ferry of Roxy Music, as he typified classic British refinement. Paul Weller, then and now, remains an icon who exemplifies the wave of fashion made popular by the post-punk mod scene. In their youth, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. all shared a swagger and air, which I hope to resurrect.
What do you look for when purchasing items for Jake Vintage?
First and foremost: quality. No matter what the period, the piece has got to be in impeccable condition. After that, I look for uniqueness, then pedigree. I tend to favor the look over the label.
Name one clothing item no man should be without.
A well-tailored suit in gray or dark blue. Then, a vintage tuxedo. Hands down. Both are staples that should be found in any man's closet.
Can you share any tricks of the trade for spotting authentic vintage?
I’ve been buying vintage apparel for over 20 years. You get to a point when you just know certain things about the clothing you are looking at. Typically, the age and pedigree of the garment can be revealed via the tags or labels found on them. Hand-sewn labels in the lapels of a suit or sport coat will give you a clue as to the authenticity of a piece. The devil is always in the details. Know your product, do your research. Don't show up to a gunfight with a knife in your pocket.
Do you wear any contemporary designers or clothing lines?
Duncan Quinn for made-to-measure suits; Sir Paul Smith for off-the-peg suits; Thomas Pink for dress shirts and cuff links. Alfred Dunhill for made-to-measure dress shirts and accessories. Ted Baker for ties with big, rich knots and sumptuous colors.
Favorite thing you've ever worn?
There are way too many to count or even mention! I will always love my thick black vintage swan glasses by Allyn Scura eyewear.
Most overrated vintage fashion item?
The shiny sharkskin suit. They are beautiful, but they are quite limiting in the breadth of their versatility and wearability.
Most underrated?
The simple, elegant sport coat with a subtle pocket square. Also, wearing color. I know it’s more of a concept, but real men wearing color. Enhance your color palette and all around will reap the benefits of your sartorial wisdom.
You seem to be on some sort of style crusade, encouraging modern men to find their inner dapper gentleman.
Why yes, I am. See, nothing gives me greater pleasure than seeing a gent come back from the tailor in a great suit, dressed to kill. I am of the opinion that there is a paradigm shift toward a more well-dressed populous. Let's face it, men need help and
have few options as to where they can find it. I think guys today are just woefully unprepared to dress for certain occasions, and quite frankly, if they're on the hunt for someone, they need to raise their game because I'm out there and it's bad. I've seen just how bad it is.
Tell me a little about your seminar series. What are some topics you're going to cover?
Well, the series as a whole is about the lost gentlemen arts. The first one is going to be about the tried and true sartorial rules of dress. It’s really like a finishing school for gents. There'll be three more to follow about grooming, etiquette and party hosting.
What's the biggest mistake made when purchasing vintage?
Leaping before looking. There will be flaws: moth holes, lost buttons, stains and discolorations. Most vintage shops have a zero-tolerance return policy, so buyers beware. The loss of one button can greatly affect the continuity of a piece. Apparel at Everything's Jake is consistently in the 95-percent-flawless rate.
To tailor or not to tailor, that is the question.
Tailor! Having said that, proceed with caution. Only experts will know if a piece can be properly tailored to fit your frame. The altering of any piece, especially a vintage one, needs the attention of a master tailor. I use Fit-Wel Custom Clothes in Studio City. They are an old-school Hong Kong bespoke and made-to-measure suit- and shirt-maker.
Complete this sentence: L.A. style is…
Looking better every day, one man at a time.
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Marcos Luevanos is Style editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
