The pop-up store is like an allegory for fashion itself: constant
reinvention combined with conceptual thought. With an
audacious debut featuring the work of Brian Lichtenberg, immediately followed
by a Grey Ant showcase, New High (M)art—
“Guerilla”
stores, originated by Commes des Garçons
label head Rei Kawakubo, served as
inspiration for New High (M)art proprietors T-RIK and Miho Ikeda. While the
intention of Kawakubo’s stores is to employ a minimal decor that remains
constant, T-RIK and Ikeda take pride in the fact that the ambiance of their
specialty shop changes with each new phase.
“We went from a very
clean, sterile, white environment that contained primarily apparel to a green
one resembling a forest, with items displayed in entomology cases,” says T-RIK. “We actually
refer to these as ‘store moments'—fleeting opportunities for consumption.”
One thing the store does have in common with its guerilla counterparts is that it’s located away from the known shopping districts of the
city. “
When it
came time for T-RIK and Ikeda to choose a couturier to fill their February/March slot,
jewelry designers Alex & Chloe were a natural choice. Featuring laser-cut
acrylic pieces that are to the last turn of the century what Bakelite jewelry was to
the ’30s, Alex & Chloe offer necklaces with subversive pendants in the
shapes of skulls, cassette tapes, runway models and dead rats. The bauble
makers embrace a “continuing collection” philosophy, meaning that while new
stock is often created, no item is limited edition or goes out of
production; each is always in style. Some of our favorite pieces include a classic black
peace sign, a neon-pink translucent octopus with coiled tentacles, and a
deliciously ironic “diamond necklace” featuring a large reflective pendant in
the shape of the Hope diamond.
All of
the merchandise in this show is displayed on counters constructed of
gray cinderblocks and unfinished wood, an aesthetic choice that’s a product of
the collaboration between the store’s owners and Alex & Chloe. That’s part
of what makes New High (M)art so appealing to designers: They have more control
over how their product’s image is conveyed than they would at another retailer
with a venue more set in its ways (and its aesthetic construction). And consumers can adore a store that's constantly on the cusp of what’s hip, including some great work that never made it to the runway. “A lot of great things are cast aside
and not included in a collection when a designer brings their product to
market,” T-RIK explains. “If a piece isn’t cohesive enough, it never makes it to the runway and
not everybody gets to see it, let alone buy it.”
So what’s next for the ever-evolving New High (M)art? “So far we’ve stuck with designers, but for April we want to focus on a single theme and use many designers,” Ikeda says. T-RIK adds, “Right now we select all of the merchandise, but we look forward to eventually having guest curators.”
The Alex & Chloe pop-up store runs through March 13 at New High (M)art.
Marcos Luevanos is Style editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
