Walking guides for the city's most interesting enclaves
Walking. v. [pronounced WAH-king] 1. Kind of like driving, except you can connect your iPod directly into your ears. 2. One of the finest means of uncovering L.A.’s lesser-known urban pockets.
With two former Melrose Avenue stores having relocated here, and another having opened an eastern satellite last May, this skewed little stretch of Hollywood Boulevard, at Vermont, offers more offbeat shopping choices per square inch than perhaps anywhere else in the city. Go ahead: Just try to leave after less than an hour.
Known by many Angelenos as that place you drive by on your way to Pasadena, Glendale is often considered the square little brother of our City of Angels. But a closer look at this hopping stretch of Brand Boulevard between Lexington Drive and Wilson Avenue might leave you thinking Pasadena’s too far after all.
Dubbed "Chicken Corner" for an Aaron Donovan mural that once graced the eastern wall of the Del Mor Apartments (and was torn down when Chango installed windows), this little block of galleries and storefronts was once a crossroads of gang activity. Now it boasts a fair share of '80s Volvos with Smith and/or Wesleyan window stickers. That doesn't mean you won't catch some gleefully shady activity while sipping a coffee on Delta Street, but you're just as likely to see parents pushing their Bugaboos. The too-cool-for-school set is reeling as condos (with underground parking, they promise) stagger to life just across the street from the Magic gas station.
Montrose. It has mountains, it has roses. It also has bragging rights as the birthplace of Virginia "Ding Dong" Bell, noted 1950s stripper with noted 48-inch bust. Perhaps you saw her in the film Lullaby of Bareland? If not, you can stroll Honolulu Avenue, a small-town main drag of many amusements, pondering what you missed. Shop, eat, drink and huff the mountain air, just as Ding Dong once did.
It may not have Rose Parade or a Suicide Bridge, but the other 'dena-Altadena-is not without its charm. North of sexy big sister Pasadena, the little town is tucked away at the top of Lake Avenue, nestled at the massive foot of the alpine, ear popping splendor of the San Gabriels-which, by the way, boast the beautiful, gut busting Sam Merrill Trail up to Mount Echo, where stunning vistas and sun-dazed rattlesnakes abound. But who needs nature when you've got all mod cons in easy walking distance back down in civilization?
Between the cheap souvenir stands, the ever-changing array of chic-hopeful restaurants, and the hip lounges for the tats-and-wallet-chain brigade, Hollywood proper offers a number of low-watt delights. Feel the magic, eat the hot dogs, buy the panties, and so much more.
The area around Lankershim and Magnolia boulevards in North Hollywood is practically begging for people to come enjoy its vibrant theater scene, burgeoning restaurants and unique shops. As of now, this hidden gem of a neighborhood has some very wide and very empty sidewalks most hours of the day. But with plenty going on and a Metro Red Line stop just yards away, this spot is due some action by you.
Los Feliz has long been at the forefront of the gentrification sweeping the Eastside. Some of us like to see ourselves as bystanders in this process rather than active participants: We're the ones you always hear grumbling about how we can't afford our own neighborhood anymore. So we've decided to do something about it. Let's take a stroll down Hillhurst Avenue—with an eye toward our wallets.
If ever there was a post-industrial Southern California beach town paradise, Playa del Rey is it. Jumbo jets roar over the tiny neighborhood pinched between LAX and Dockweller Beach, where mysterious crumbling structures jut dramatically into the surf. Hardly fit for a king, but beach bums and city folk alike can traverse its streets, getting royally drunk at venues within staggering distance of one another.
Sitting under a canopy of trees at a South Pasadena coffee shop, time slows down. Artist folk ramble, bike riders pass, old-timers mosey, and mid-afternoon strollers say hello while walking their dogs-and not the kind that fit into a purse. The Mission West District has a small-town, feel-good atmosphere. Parking spaces are as bountiful as wine shops, and lazy lounging is the Sunday standard. You can’t even hear the freeway. The locals want to keep it that way; there are always threats the 710 will one day invade. Set foot in this endangered oasis while you can.
The Palm Springs area has long been a haven for retirees eager to escape the crazy kids and their complicated haircuts. But one weekend a year, the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival attracts the 18-35 demographic in droves to the sweltering heat. In order to properly take in (and take over) Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley, we’ve compiled a shortlist of places to eat, drink, shop and be merry on your way to or from the fest. Enjoy, and don’t forget your sunblock.
Eastsiders: Take a vacation for a day by riding the No. 2 MTA bus to the westernmost end of Sunset Boulevard, then walking Antioch Street to Swarthmore Avenue. Here in the heart of Pacific Palisades, you’ll happily flip-flop around this celebrity-laden beachside town to find flirty boutiques, organic bites and good reads.
Imagine hitting the great outdoors in your own backyard. We're talking about Griffith Park—where car horns and technology addiction take a back seat to nature walks, tennis, bike and carousel rides, and fresh-baked vegan pie.
Within stumbling distance of the Red Line’s Hollywood/Western stop, Thai Town and Little Armenia intertwine along Hollywood Boulevard, heading east to Normandie. The resulting cultural amalgam has more to offer than just multi-alphabetic signs, however. If you’re a cross-dressing barfly, a grindcore junkie, a keen antique aficionado or perhaps all three, this half-mile stretch is a welcome respite from the usual Hollywood glitz.
The corner of Eagle Rock Blvd. and Colorado Ave. is a hub of quirky delights. You'll find trendy boutiques, vintage stores and dual-purpose shops—art galleries, for example, share spaces with bookstores and hair salons. There's even an original Fosters Freeze down the road for those wanting a taste of childhood, soft-serve style.
The somewhat chaotic intersection of Wilshire and La Brea doesn’t seem like an obvious place for a stroll. But we burned through 13 songs on our iPod along this stretch—if only because there was so much to explore. You can shop for cute vintage clothes or chic little gifts, grab a meal, or even catch a show up the street at the famous El Rey Theatre. You can also take public transit—there are buses that connect to the Metro stop right on the corner.
Couched beneath the Hollywood Hills, this dense block of shops and watering holes is one of our favorite walkable stretches—if just for the relaxed vibe and tight-knit microcosm of folks it attracts. From groggy neighborhood eccentrics to B-list actors looking to keep a low profile, this block may seem at first glance like our very own Pitcairn Island. Parking can be tough, however, and don’t even think about trying your luck at the Mayfair Market: They’ll tow you faster than you can say Upright Citizens Brigade.
Yeah, Venice Beach can be hell ride of a tourist trap. But if you travel far enough south and turn slightly off the boardwalk, there is a trove of (somewhat) hidden treasures for your cash-spending pleasure. On the historic Windward Ave., you can gorge on Chinese food, shop for vintage duds, down a stronger-than-heck margarita and get that dragon tattoo you’ve always wanted, all in a one-block radius. And you can thank us later.
Just across the Glendale Boulevard bridge, what could pass as a fleet of same-ish buildings when you’re driving is actually, when viewed afoot, a bounty of shops, restaurants and low-key locales. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as richie cousin Silverlake, there’s still lots to unearth if you let your feet do the walkin’. Try parking on a side street like Madera or Larga.
Just a beer bong away from UCLA, Westwood Boulevard just south of Wilshire (aka SoWood) offers more than Persian rugs and day spas -- but there are a lot of those too. It’s an international stretch dotted with cafes, coffee shops, and markets serving fresh produce and Middle Eastern sweets. Add renovated storefronts and New Age fitness studios, and it’s a walkable destination to get lost for a while.
HelMel—named after the intersection of Heliotrope and Melrose—is tucked away under that huge green net behind Los Angeles City College. The area is less a neighborhood than it is two corners featuring a diverse cluster of businesses catering to an even more diverse clientele. We don’t know why this veggie-friendly, bicycle-loving and art-supporting zone took root on this random block off Vermont Ave., but the result is a walkable destination we love.
