There is a frustrating tendency among vegan restaurants to attempt baffling impersonations of animal-product-heavy comfort foods. Perhaps, tempeh “meatloaf” wrapped in soy “bacon” is a nice option for a vegan missing grandma. But for those who enjoy this “alterno-cuisine” for the very reason that it is not meat,
Flore Vegan Cuisine in Silverlake is a score. The menu is so deliciously committed to the vegetable way that it nearly cancels out its newbie flaws.
Flore is a tiny restaurant on Sunset; it seems better equipped for taking-out than sitting-down. A case displaying colorful salads and pretty pastries takes up nearly half the room, leaving little space for seating. On a recent Friday night, however, no one wanted to-go, and a flustered server flew from packed table to table, dropping off tantalizing soy mozzarella pizzas and thick sandwiches.
“Take a seat, but it will be a while,” the sole waiter panted before hopping off to deliver purple juice to a couple that looked like they belonged in a tree. Our group of three crammed into an open table outside. We were so close to our neighbors, it was impossible not to hear their conversation: “I will eat nothing, if I can’t have breakfast,” a-40-something-man told his maybe 21-year old girlfriend. (Indeed, the breakfast menu is tempting, with options like cranberry walnut French toast and blueberry buckwheat pancakes.) When he found out that his dish of choice is only served until noon, he grabbed his companion by the hand and huffed away.
Given that the “kitchen” is relegated to a small space behind the counter, the menu is ambitious, sprinkled with novelties like jicama and dehydrated kiwi tacos. (Craving protein, we skipped these.) While the tahini salad dressing ultimately disappointed, the dishes that arrived were fresh and satisfying. The tofu wrap was packed with tasty roasted vegetables. Cashew cheese, avocado and tempeh created a pleasant textural tapestry in the Flore burrito. And somehow, the bean burger was hearty enough to satisfy my carnivore companion.
Dessert is a confusing experience. We ordered chocolate cake from the display window, but then were told the owner wouldn't sell it because there was a mix-up and it wasn't organic. We opted for the carrot cake instead. Its crunchy exterior melded nicely with the frosting. As we basked in vegetable pride, our server sidled up and offered a confession: “You know, I really don’t eat this stuff. I’m more of a Taco Bell kind of guy.”
Food: Organic vegan that’s not trying to be Thai or Midwestern comfort food.
Scene: High population density of blond dreads and technicolor tattoos. Try this as a pickup line: “Can I buy you a shot of hemp protein?”
Insider Tip: Service is getting faster—the wait staff has already doubled since our visit—but if you're in a rush, take out or go elsewhere.
