Wieners—and pizza and burgers—are so big this season
By Katherine Spiers, Special to Metromix
Whoa, what's up with all the hot dogs this spring? All of a sudden, L.A. is wiener-obsessed—culinarily speaking, that is. Sausages both new and familiar are popping up all over the place, from Encino to Westwood. And when it isn't oblong meat products, it's some other type of comfort food. It seems that after a year of expensive fancy-pants restaurants hitting the scene, L.A. is going back to basics. Beso and BLT Steak are two notable exceptions, but otherwise it's pizza, fried chicken and Tex-Mex nachos all the way. There's even some stick-to-your-ribs grub for vegans. Of course, it wouldn’t be a party platter without the most notoriously incorrigible, bad-ass burger in the county. The Culver City branch of Father’s Office is bigger, badder and (huzzah!) finally open. Here they are, starting with the most recent openings.
This storefront space in Glendale is quickly turning into a foodie emporium. The main event is, of course, the restaurant, where dishes from potted meats to dark chocolate pudding are created to pair perfectly with the wine list, which is curated with love and passion. In addition to the restaurant proper, there's a wine bar where the selection can be sampled, along with a cheese or two or five. Then, naturally, there is a cheese store as well. And a gastronomic library. So if you're in the mood to learn about food, this could be your spot.
Hotel Palomar's restaurant, Blvd 16, may well be a step or two above conventional hotel dining. The restaurant bar is embracing the freshness trend wholeheartedly and offering drinks made with fresh juices and herbs. The prices make it one of Westwood's less student-friendly options, but the menu does offer some interesting options: truffled goat cheese shows up as a side, English pea ravioli is one of the star dishes and a lot of items are roasted, from the beets to the lamb chops. The menu will change seasonally.
Josef Centeno is a locally famous chef who made Opus in Koreatown into the unexpected culinary powerhouse it once was. Foodies went into a frenzy when he left, but now they can rest easy: He has his own place in Echo Park. Lot 1 will continue with some of the elements Centeno excelled at previously, such as tasting menus and bacos, the flatbread/taco-y things with an international array of toppings. The entire menu is, in fact, pretty international, with small-plates offerings from cheese and salumi plates to sashimi to popovers with chimichurri sauce. If it's as good as Opus, it'll be a slam-dunk.
Salad bars are so hot right now and Beverly Hills is getting in on the action with this lunchtime-only spot. Salads can be chosen off the menu board or customers can create their own, using all manner of vegetables and protein options such as rotisserie chicken, barbecue shrimp and ahi. Specialty salads include the Kitchen Sink Cobb, Chop Chop, and for some reason, something called Buffalo "Wangs."
First things first: No, this is not another Wolfgang Puck enterprise. It remains to be seen whether this town is big enough for two Wolfgangs, but this new interloper comes to us from New York with a pretty strong reputation. With two Manhattan locations, this is among New York's most well-received upscale steakhouses, and the exclusivity is sure to fare well among Beverly Hills denizens. There's a "private room" that's actually in the center of the room with glass walls, which seems a good fit for the agents and executives who will no doubt love it here. And no matter where you sit, you can order a 3-pound lobster or a 72-ounce steak.
This authentic-feeling Japanese grill joint on the Redondo Beach Pier went from empty to overflowing in a matter of weeks. There's only one chef, a man who trained in the art of yakitori in Japan. He cooks on special Bincho charcoal (hence the restaurant's name) and churns out all kinds of things on skewers: eggplant, pork belly and tomatoes, chicken meatballs, wings and thighs, with or without leeks. Customers choose between salt or mirin and soy marinades for most dishes, and come away universally happy.
This small space is bringing the best of Spanish food and wine to the 'burbs. The plates range from small to large and include such items as braised pork and bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with chorizo. The wine list is quite impressive, though (purposefully) limited in scope to mainly Californian and, especially, Spanish bottles.
Fans of The Dip will be sad to see an old favorite go, but the good news is that its replacement, The Infield, is owned by the same family. The menu is still just as simple, but now focuses on hot dogs and sausages (the whole place is an homage to baseball, with themed decor and TVs broadcasting "greatest moments"-type clips). Hot dogs range from $3 for a simple one with brown mustard and sauerkraut to $6 for terrifying concoctions such as the Twinkie Dog (twinkie as a bun, Cheez Wiz, whipped cream and a cherry). It's not exactly gourmet, but it has a certain appeal.
The man behind the Bowery, one of L.A.'s most popular erstwhile gastropubs, has gone further down the restaurant path. This newer endeavor has plenty of wine, fancy beers and a lot of cocktails, but there's bountiful food as well. The menu is sort of Italian by way of New York, with items like meatball Parmesan, pasta Bolognese and fried calamari. Things tend to get experimental (the crostini are inventive), but do not suit some palates. Which is fine—there's plenty of space at the bar for wine and a cannoli.
At long last, after months of speculation and rumors and blatant snooping around, Father’s Office opens in the historic Helms Bakery building. This version 2.0 is a significant upgrade—nearly doubling the capacity of the original and housing twice as many beer taps. Wine by the glass also comes from a tap, and there’s an artisanal spirits menu which includes 25-year Armagnac and organic tequila from Jalisco, Mexico, but nary a drop of vodka. The food menu, however, and its strict "no modifications" mantra, hasn’t changed—so, no, you can’t have the burger your way.
This family-run-since-1946 establishment was purchased in 2007 by
another Pasadena restaurant family, the folks behind the Original Tops.
The new owners are wholly respectful of Gus’ history: While the
interior was gutted and spiffed up with modern touches, the original
neon sign with running chickens and piggies still graces the historic
red brick façade. The food has changed with the addition of a
rotisserie and two smokers—indeed, there’s even greater focus on
barbecue. All the classics are here, including pulled pork, brisket,
baby back ribs and—scream it out—ice cream sundaes!
Don't get freaked out—they're supposed to be wearing those maid outfits. L.A’s first “cosplay” cafe pays homage to the most extreme Japanese fashion: people who wear costumes all the time. Equal parts tea room, boutique and art space, Royal/T is a Japanese pop world brimming with manga, CDs, accessories and various kawaii tchotchkes. And, yes, there’s high tea and desserts to go with the French-maid servers.
This little mini-chain is making strides towards keeping people well-fed, healthy and happy during lunch. And it's cafeteria-style, to boot! Prices are extremely reasonable, especially given the food quality: Pot roast, elaborate salads with or without proteins, sandwiches on fancy bread and dreamy desserts (check out the lemon bars) are all regular offerings. And yes, there is lemonade—usually a few flavored varieties of it.
Mall food court restaurants have a deservedly poor reputation, but it looks like Lemonade is the opposite of everything bad you've ever thought about them. And it's cafeteria-style, to boot! Prices are extremely reasonable, especially given the food quality: Pot roast, elaborate salads with or without proteins, sandwiches on fancy bread and dreamy desserts are all regular offerings. And yes, there is lemonade—usually a few flavored varieties of it.
Flake has a concept that appeals to students, stoners, and all other wise souls: breakfast served until dusk. The focus is on cereal, and various combinations of grains, fruit, candy, nuts and milk can be compiled into one custom creation. And although this is a temple to the great American invention, the breakfast sandwiches earn high praise as well; check out the turkey and avocado on a bagel.
Echo Park's gentrification continues apace here, but at least it does so at a reasonable price point. The menu is an unusual mix of American classics (burgers, steak, spaghetti and meatballs) and Asian-tinged dishes such as salmon with black bean sauce, "Szechuan-style" calamari, and Jidori chicken, which is already being praised as a standout dish. Go figure. But the environment is friendly, and without a wine or beer list, it’s strictly BYOB. What’s more inviting than no corkage fee?
Any new non-chain restaurant is a welcome addition to Downtown, as far as we're concerned. Seven won't be bringing in huge crowds of young trendsetters—it's too expensive for that—but it will keep professionals hanging out longer after work (especially if they have an expense account). The food isn't stellar, but at least it's trying. The mixed seafood and veggie fry-up is pretty good and the lamb chops are excellent, though the sides that come with them are decidedly not. There's also a bar menu for those looking for something lighter; the wine list is pretty extensive and will soon be joined by a full bar.
This club is mainly a place to get your drink on with fancy-sounding beach-themed cocktails, which don't quite seem to match up with the decidedly non-fancy-sounding food, but we can dig it. (Why not have a gimlet with your burger?) Of course, standards like margaritas are available too. It wouldn't be a pier without margaritas. The burgers ’n’ fries menu also has a few unusual takes on the classics, such as the Caesar salad "fondue," which should be a delight for lovers of dressing.
California-style fine dining and wines are offered at this Pasadena outpost of a Phoenix-based mini-chain. The concept is similar to a Cheesecake Factory: big portions of crowd-pleasers such as prime rib, chopped salad and chicken nachos. If the food isn't your thing, the decor might be. The restaurant is located in a meticulously refurbished old train depot.
Celebrity chef Todd English and celebrity-celebrity Eva Longoria have teamed up to create a high-end, fusion-y, Mexican-esque destination in the heart of Hollywood. English’s many restaurants across the U.S. are well-respected, and this is his first foray into Los Angeles and Mexican food. Longoria’s two contributions to the menu are guacamole, which people seem to like, and tortilla soup, which people seem to really, really hate. But, Beso is really a place to kiss the bartender—the dazzling juice-based cocktails are always spot on.
Former mayor-cum-enterprising restaurateur Richard Riordan is a bit of a tricky Dick, it seems. Another notch in his expanding resto-empire, the final incarnation of the Village Pantry caused a bit of ruckus among Palisaders, who not only mourned the loss of their beloved Mort’s Deli but were anticipating a similar homage to cured meats and casual dining in its stead. The B-L-D menu of $10 omelettes and duck cassoulet, along with an executive chef who’s worked stints at Michael’s and Water Grill, are decidedly upscale, despite an offering of matzo ball soup here and a pastrami sandwich there. Perhaps the Oak Room, the adjoining bar, would be the best place for peace talks.
This offshoot of the Melrose pizza joint is actually pretty hard to find. It's in the back of a small, non-descript building on a quiet street in Franklin Hills. But people have been finding it and keeping it busy; many locals are interested in seeing how it compares to the long-running favorite Hard Times down the street. The specialty pizzas are popular here, especially the (drum roll) tomato pie, which is a rectangular creation with just a dusting of hard cheese.
The verdict’s still out on whether this is the best pizza in Silverlake. It garners the full spectrum of responses from “awesome” to “sucks.” At least its eco-conscience is indisputable. All the disposable ware (plates, cups, utensils) is biodegradable; coffee, tea, and as many of the ingredients as possible are organic and locally-sourced; and the restaurant does its own composting. Added bonus: Delivery service brings a cute boy on a fuel-efficient scooter to your door.
BLT stands not for the delicious sandwich, but for Bistro Laurent Tourondel—a growing network of protein-obsessed brasseries from New York-based celebrity chef Tourondel. As the rest of the name suggests, it’s a steakhouse done with French elaborations. There’s a raw bar, full charcuterie and cheese offerings, and a signature cut of sirloin for a whopping $82. But for all the high-falutin’, high-rolling fare, standouts are the ginormous popovers and chicken liver pate, which come free as your bread service.
This hotel restaurant offers a pretty basic comfort food menu with a few inventive touches here and there. The Cobb salad is made with salmon, not the standard chicken, and the Caesar salad comes on a bed of orzo. Otherwise, it's a crash course in what's trendy at L.A. restaurants right now: spring rolls, fried calamari, sliders, an expensive burger, mac and cheese, organic chicken and bread pudding.
The name says Siena, but the menu says California. Currently open only for lunch, the focus is on the fusion-y pizzas Angelenos love and East Coasters pretend to disdain. It's owned by the team behind Mojitos, so expect large portions of, at the very least, decent food.
We’ll take Marty’s word for it that this homey little space recreates a ’50s soda fountain by way of Coney Island, since we don’t have firsthand knowledge of either. The menu of hot dogs, baked beans, corn on the-cob and egg creams feels like the Fourth of July all year long—which is exactly the point. The husband-and-wife team were inspired by their own holiday barbecues. But for all the nostalgic quaintness, the all-beef Marty’s Deluxe costs $8—those are Beverly Hills prices, dog!
Colonel Sanders may be shaking in his boots. BonChon’s entry into Los Angeles (unconventionally by way of New York) was met with much excitement by enthusiasts of KFC—that’s Korean-style fried chicken, which is crispier, stickier, and spicier than the Colonel’s original recipe. But fast food this ain’t: It can take 30 minutes to make the chicken.
Those searching for healthy vegetarian food now have a great option in Little Tokyo. This restaurant serves a Japanese interpretation of Buddhist vegetarian (shojin) cuisine. The food is prepared without meat, fish, eggs or dairy; dishes are usually made with vegetables rather than a meat alternative (such as seitan). Desserts are soy-based, of course, and the parfait is particularly popular.
Chef/owner Robert Benson of Jack n’ Jill’s, the popular Beverly Hills breakfast spot, is coaxing more carbs into the Robertson Boulevard diet. While these Franco-flapjacks are skinny and served in an elegant dining room, the portions are gigantic (Benson used to work at Claim Jumper) and drowning in a Jersey cow’s worth of cream. If you’re not in the mood for crepes, the commodious menu also offers sandwiches, salads and assorted entrees.
It looks like the Valley’s long-standing dog-and-burger outlet is angling to take over West L.A. After inculcating the fortress of CAA’s new Century City campus, the Stand has added another location, this one in Westwood Village—proving that Hollywood agents and UCLA freshmen share a propensity for wieners. The newest location is also open latest (until 11 p.m. on weekends), and while menu prices remain inexpensively the same, nothing beats the $1 Dog Night on Mondays.
This is a hole in the wall with gourmet aspirations. Well, kind of—after all, it is just sausages and hot dogs. But the handmade options of veal, venison, ostrich or buffalo, to name a few, are definitely awe-inspiring. Competently executed side dishes such as German potato salad and sauerkraut (any of which could go terribly wrong) give the place some foodie cred. There are in fact two brothers, Peter and Roland, either of whom man the counter on any given day, so be sure to say hello.
Former mayor Richard Riordan has been expanding his restaurant empire for some time, and now he's expanding alcohol consumption in L.A. as well: With The Oak Room, he has acquired the second liquor license in Pacific Palisades. To go along with all the sweet sweet booze, the menu is full of items like Niman Ranch meat and seasonal vegetables from farmers markets, which we suppose makes it slightly healthier than Riordan's other temples of gluttony.
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
